A trip on Mahaparinirvan Express
By Harish Nambiar, Economic Times
The spectre of a kitschy image-led Hinduism pancaked in a simplistic, neo-conservative politics has been haunting India's latest election. The country's ancient history, always an enigma wrapped in undercared for manuscripts in nearly undecipherable languages, has however caught the interest of a few who grew up in Independent India and are past its median age of 25.
So, when the Railways started a train that would explore the Buddhist trail, I booked a seat. And it was with great expectation that I boarded the Mahaparinirvan Express early October from Delhi's Safdarjung station, marigold garland of the IRCTC (a corporate impostor spinoff of the Railways) in hand, while liveried bearers insisted on carrying my unwieldy backpack aboard.
The train had only 31 passengers, but 10 air-conditioned coaches were hauled throughout the week-long trip for them. It is one of the early bird gifts of the first tender and tentative public-private partnerships in newly opened economies; a nightmare for a CEO in chase of profits.
Another of those gifts was that we had an unusually qualified guide throughout the trip. RB Singh, a 74-year-old retired senior official of the tourism ministry, had an MA in Pali from the Nava Nalanda Mahavihara in 1963. The university was created to give modern, aspirational shape to the powerful symbolic meaning the ancient Nalanda had for newly Independent India.
Convenience of pilgrimage to these holy sites:
first stop — Bodh Gaya
next stop was Sarnath
then Lumbini in Nepal
Then to Kushinagar
Would you not want to take a ride on this Express?